Ikurangi Resort, Cook Islands

No time to get away? Jump over the international date line and save yourself a day – and be sustainable too – at Ikurangi Eco Retreat in the Cook Islands. By James Teo. 

Courtesy Ikurangi.

Courtesy Ikurangi.

Rarotonga , November 2019. You know the International Date Line? That line where the day changes from Saturday to Sunday in the wink of an eye? Well, it’s not a line, it’s a squiggle. And tucked under the bulge that keeps Kiribati in Saturday longer than it should do is the Cook Islands. Made up of 15 separate islands it is about as far away from big city (or country) as you can get.

It is also a world-leading proponent of renewable energy as it moves towards a goal of 100% renewables by 2020. It has pledged to completely cut the nation’s reliance on imported diesel – instead power will be generated from wind and wave generators and has gazetted one of the world’s largest protected marine reserves – Marae Moana - which covers all 15 islands across 1 million square kilometres, and will protect the local coral reefs from damage and factory fishing. 

And one resort already ahead of the Cook Island sustainable pack is Ikurangi Eco Retreat on the main island of Rarotonga. With its low-impact glamping approach to hospitality, it is, say the owners – Matt and Luana Scowcroft – something they are passionate about. “This project has been about turning our passion into a job,” says Luana. Ïn the first few months this place went from being a building site to what we envisaged it to be. It’s quite exciting to see your plan come to fruition.”

The mountain that gives the retreat its name. Courtesy Ikurangi.

The mountain that gives the retreat its name. Courtesy Ikurangi.

That fruition has turned into a totally sustainable hideaway targeted at what the Scowcroft’s call “visitors from all walks of life who are conscious of their effect on our fragile environment.” Situated near the dramatic mountain centre of Rarotonga, Ikurangi literally means “the tail of the sky” and is the name of the highlands that watch over the local village, Matavera.

“The importance we placed on minimising the retreat’s effect on the environment was the inspiration behind using luxury safari tents,” they say. “We use shallow foundations for the decking, composting toilets, sustainably sourced materials, natural and biodegradable toiletries and cleaning products and free bicycles as key to developing an eco-friendly accommodation site.”

Nestling under the Mount Ikurangi, the resort’s Tropical Are studios, Luxury Safari Tents and an Ariki Safari Tent hide amongst the natural surroundings, and offer comfort without being bedecked with unnecessary and unsustainable gadgets. There’s a ‘less is more approach’ approach to the Scowcroft’s decor, with as many natural materials being used as possible.

Glamping on a tropical island - perfect! Courtesy Ikurangi.

Glamping on a tropical island - perfect! Courtesy Ikurangi.

The ‘Are’ studios are designed to mimic traditional Polynesian houses with woven palm structures; Luxury Safari Tents are permanent glamps made of canvas with a super-refreshing outdoor bathroom, and a natty little wooden front porch. The Ariki Safari Tent, aimed primarily at starry-eyed couples, offers loved-up extras, including an outdoor bathtub and a complimentary bottle of sparkling on arrival.

There’s also a saltwater swimming pool, free guest bicycles, yoga mats and snorkelling equipment all available on site as part of the deal. If you think you need stretching, couples massages and private yoga can be arranged in your own garden or on your private deck.

Honeymooners will like this bathroom. Courtesy Ikurangi.

Honeymooners will like this bathroom. Courtesy Ikurangi.

Food-wise, breakfasts of granola, fruit, homemade yogurt and muffins are included, but there is no restaurant; you might need to make alternative plans to go into town for dinner. Alternatively simple dinner platters are available through the inhouse chef, who can whip up vegan or vegetarian food if asked.

The resort has links to the local Te Ipukarea (conservation) Society to help put back into the local society and keep guest activities community-focused, says Luana. They also recommend a visitor payback scheme, where guests make a donation to Te Ipukarea when they leave, and additionally 5% of profits are pledged to local conservation initiatives.

“We have our ups and downs – mainly due to the unpredictable tropical weather on Rarotonga,” says Luana. “But we are trying to provide a model to prove that sustainable tourism can work, doing things in more of an ecologically sound way that can actually work commercially as well,” she adds.