Taroko National Park displays many traits of ecotourism that has been managed sustainably. Mallika Naguran writes about her travel there and of the nature experienced within the mountains and gorge.

Taipei, 20 February 2020. Visiting Taiwan is a wonderful idea. I’d recommend it. First, it is because the people are among the warmest that I have ever come across. Apart from the people, visiting scenic areas and experiencing the local culture are the other big attractions. Those were my reasons for travel.  No wonder the Portuguese in 1542 dubbed it Ilha Formosa upon sighting it, meaning, beautiful island!

Taiwan has many gorgeous places to visit. The entire area is huge at 35,808 sq km—nearly 50 times the size of Singapore. However unlike flat-terrained Singapore, Taiwan has vast mountain ranges. These dominate the eastern two-thirds, with plains in the western third. And you guessed it right: the west is where it is urbanized and densely populated.

A top place to visit is the Taroko National Park with its mountainous terrains, plunging gorges and picturesque trails. This park is in the east within the Hualien County. Around 32,000 residents live there, making it the biggest county in Taiwan that has a population of 23 million.

In Taiwan, a combination of tourism need and environmental awareness led to the growth of ecotourism. It is not surprising that underlining the development and promotion of the Taroko National Park are ecotourism principles. The parks in Taiwan bear the burden of education of the environment as well, and the well-desgined information centres are testament to such effort. I enjoyed passing time at these Visitor Centres, and the staff there are a joy to chat with as well.

Taroko National Park and all of its offerings today are the result of a visionary and comprehensive blueprint rooted in ecological conservation since the 1980s. The park authorities had given priority to sustainability inclusion in planning for the environment, society and economy.  Education, training of staff and the use of information technology are factors considered as driving forces for sustainable development as well.

Taroko’s animals & birds

There’s a 48-metre elevation scenic stop to look at the Pacific Ocean at Crescent Bay. We also spent time taking photos at the entrance of the gorge, where a distinctive gateway stands. We then made our way exploring the gorge from there.

Taroko was one of the three natural areas to be designated as national park in the 1930s by the Japanese when it had occupied Taiwan from 1895 to 1945. Photographs of the lofty mountains, blue rivers and forests, sometimes misty, speak of picture perfect moments. No matter the season, it is hard to go away with a bad photo!

The beauty of Taroko lies both in the east where the park borders the Pacific Ocean, and the west, where there are mountain ranges.  Apart from the gorge, the national park is known for the Hehuan Mountain Range and Cingshui Cliff—these are listed in Taiwan’s top eight scenic spots.

At sunrise or sunset, the gentle slopes of Mount Hehuan are a sight to behold, making it among the top “Hundred Peaks of Taiwan”. In winter, the snow landscapes of Mount Hehuan, Mount Nanhu and Mount Jhongyanglian are photographers’ dreams.

More about the mountains in this gorgeous spot.  Mount Nanhu, standing at 3,742 metres, is the highest mountain in Taroko National Park. Chilai Mountain at 3,700metres is also one of the famous mountains in Taiwan. Mount Wuling at 3,275 metres is another wonder. There, temperature can dip as low as minus 18 Celsius, according to my tour guide.

Hiking is probably the best way to soak in the smells, sounds and scenes of Taroko. Trails are plenty; Mount Shihmen, Hehuan E. Peak and Mount Hehuan trails can be completed in half a day, I was told. As weather conditions can change quickly, one should be prepared for foggy conditions. The right gear, equipment and a mountain guide are essential for climbing mountain slopes, and one could join climbing groups.

Look out for the Moltreche’s green tree frog, an endangered species that is endemic to Taiwan. You might hear its loud clear calls in the low and middle elevation forests there. The Bilyu Sacred Tree area in the mid-elevation zone of broadleaved and coniferous mixed forests attracts the Formosan striped squirrel, white-faced flying squirrel, the Formosan serow, Formosan Reeve’s muntjac and the Formosan wild boar. These can be found in the understory of the forests with camphor, beech and maple trees that exhibit vivid red and yellow colours during the fall.

The park is a birder’s paradise too with over 90 bird species spotted in that surrounds: we woke up at dawn to the chatter and songs of birds against the view of misty mountains. The Formosan Laughing Thrush, the largest of Taiwan’s babblers, can be found at the highest elevations. During winter, however, they migrate to lower elevations. The rare Mikado pheasant, endemic to Taiwan, can be found in the middle and high elevation forests. The Taiwan barbet can be found in forests of low and middle elevations, nesting in the holes of dead trees.

Then there are the rivers. The Liwu River, Taosai River and Shakadang River snake through the mountains and plains. The Liwu River runs through the gorge, helping to carve the rugged landscapes of rocks and natural minerals. Marble formed as a result is mined for commercial use. I love observing the folds of the rocks that tell a story of a time – millions of years ago - where the mountains formed. While splashing the river water with your feet, you might see the monk goby and Taiwan shovel jaw carp especially in the Shakadang River. It’s a great place to observe aquatic habitats, I am told!

My group saw the following endemic birds throughout our trip in Hualien County: Styan’s Bulbul, Taiwan Barbet, White-eared Sibia, Chestnut-bellied Tit, Taiwan Yuhina, Yellow Tit, Taiwan Bamboo Partridge, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, and the Taiwan Scimitar-babbler.

With so much natural beauty to behold in Taroko National Park and the other parts of the Hualien County, I made a promise to myself to revisit Taiwan again, and this time to stay longer.

Where to stay

There’s accommodation along the Central Cross Island Highway at Taroko, Buluowan, Tiansiang, Guanyuan and Mount Hehuan. Advance reservations are recommended. A Heliu Camping Ground is located on the 172.5 kilometre area of the highway, with wooden platforms for rent at NT$300 (nearly US$10). Bring your own tent! Only cold water shower is available. 

We opted for something more comfortable, and with hot showers at the Taroko Village Hotel. This hotel is owned and operated by Mr. Joseph Zheng for 15 years with staff who are aboriginals.  “I want to give the people work and help build tourism here so that we can support the economy as well as preserve the local culture,” he said to Gaia Discovery. The hotel has been awarded a local sustainability certification – Taiwan Sustainable Travel International.

The guest rooms are varied, for couples to groups, and are designed as mountain huts and chalets. The wooden cabin design helps to reinforce the simplicity of the village hotel while accentuating the serenity and beauty of the mountain landscapes. The interior of the guestrooms is charming: bamboo and wood abound, and there are local books on culture, walks and trails on display. There was a group of Singapore tourists that chose this spot for their yoga retreat. I couldn’t think of a better place for flexing bodies to recharge chakra!

Regular performances nightly at the Taroko Village Hotel demonstrate the cultural values of the local people—the Taroko tribe. Love songs, hunting calls, tribal fight with a prize on the head of the enemy. Endearing vocals supported by jew harp or bamboo percussion. Costumes are cultural apparel worn by the tribe, mostly made of natural material. There were all rather colourful and interesting, and made me realize what a full and rich culture that is still being preserved up in the mountainous Taroko. 

How to Get There

There are daily international flights to Kaohsiung in the south of Taiwan, and Taipei in the north. From there, you head east towards Hualien by air or train. If you drive or have the luxury of a driver, take the Suhua Highway (Highway No.9), Central Cross Island Highway (Highway No. 8), and Wushe Section of Central Cross Island Highway (Highway No.14A). Once you’re in Hualien, you can get to the park by car, motorcycle rental or by hopping onto the Hualien or Fengyuan buses. Cycling is also possible to get around, but you’ve to be pretty fit to climb certain steep slopes and be brave enough to share narrow roads with motorists.

Gaia Discovery thanks the organisers Hualien County and Ecotourism Taiwan for making this trip possible. With thanks to Johnny Orn too for his excellent bird photography . Visit his blogsite https://khmerbirder.wordpress.com/2019/11/29/2019-taiwan-birdathon/.